CAPITOL HILL. A self-proclaimed Pakistani restaurant, this cozy eatery (whose name means "volcano") offers cuisine with a decidedly Indian flair. Its hallmark is food prepared in the clay tandoori oven. Lamb and chicken cooked this way are made succulent and tender, bearing the reddish hue characteristic of tandoori cooking. Aside from these dishes, you can also opt for a spicy vindaloo or lamb karahi, full of vegetables and rich seasonings. With all the thick sauces, you'll do well to sample the range of breads, from classic nan to onion kulcha. A delicious taste of the sub-continent.

ALEXANDRIA. For a taste of Afghan cuisine, consider this great, unimposing restaurant. A plain exterior opens into a friendly, upbeat atmosphere, and long, family-style tables perfectly accommodate crowds. Bread alone is worth a visit ­ light, airy, and delivered from the clay oven to your table in loaves as big as manhole covers. Juicy kebabs and Afghan-style turnovers called bulanee offer excellent options, and the house specialty is aushak ­ light dumplings (with your choice of filling) topped with mint and yogurt. Casual attire.

FAIRFAX. The menu stretches on and on at Bombay Bistro, making it an ideal choice for aficionados or newcomers who want to sample Indian cuisine. The serene, attractive dining room is adorned with Indian art and textiles; a lovely outdoor section is available as well. Tandoori dishes, a house specialty, include chicken, shrimp, fish, and lamb, well-seasoned and served with fresh nan bread. A potent lamb vindaloo and spicy curries test the palates of heat-seekers, and plenty of vegetarian options can also be had. The vast lunch buffet offers the best of everything for one low price.

DOWNTOWN. This little-known find is one of the top places in town for flavorful Indian cuisine, and its location near the White House means it typically crawls with staffers and political types. Reportedly a favorite of the Clintons during his time in office, the refined, palm-dotted dining room is a combination of British and Indian styles. But the food is authentic Indian all the way, with skillfully prepared tandoori dishes, lamb in saffron with yogurt and spices, and a fantastic array of curries. Vegetarians and carnivores will both be satisfied. Just don't miss the naan, a flavorful, soft bread that's a Bombay Club specialty. Business casual dress. Reservations recommended. METRO: Farragut West

ALEXANDRIA. This cosmopolitan Indian restaurant is known for its great buffet specials and four-alarm vindaloo dishes. Surroundings are casual and simple, but the food is complex and full of flavor. Try flaming-hot tandoori chicken wings and some of the most tongue-tingling curries in town. Even the presumably mild butter chicken has a pungent, spicy kick. A perennially good bet is the chef's special, which changes each week based on the freshest seasonal ingredients. Not for the faint of heart. Casual attire.