GEORGETOWN. Step back in time as you enter this elegant Federal-style country inn. Indeed, the early American antiques, Limoges china, Currier and Ives prints, and rustic fireplace create a comfortable yet luxe dining space. Skillfully prepared American dishes such as fresh Maryland crab cakes, Chesapeake rockfish, and rack of lamb with creamy feta potatoes keenly remind patrons why 1789 is praised as one of the area's most distinguished restaurants. The superb wine list and strict dress code only add to the legend, as does a cast of regulars that includes members of DC's "old money" crowd and the occasional public servant. METRO: Foggy Bottom

BETHESDA. This is primal eating at its best. The setting: wooden tables covered with newspaper. The tools: small knives and wooden hammers. The goal: delicate, sweet crabmeat. You're on your own here, and what you eat is what you conquer. Wear casual clothes, and do your best to extract the tender morsels of crab from the shells. Join other patrons as they crack, smash, and crush, and enjoy the camaraderie as you work for your dinner. Order a beer to combat the sweat, and enjoy cole slaw and corn on the cob as you dig in. This isn't your typical meal, but it's a blast, especially with a group. Just make sure to place an order for crabs before you come. If they run out, you're left with shrimp ­ and what fun is there in that?

BETHESDA. The speakeasy aesthetics set a cool scene at this large, well-received establishment. Seafood is the highlight, but it's more than grilled filets (although those offered are delicious, encrusted with coriander and pistachios). Oysters are tempting broiled or fried, and the cod branade fritters are downright addictive. Mains include black pepper and fennel-crusted tuna, seafood stew, organic salmon and seared sea scallops with Swiss shard. From the wood-fired grill, dandies like filet mignon, Berkshire pork chop and loin of Shenandoah lamb are available for landlubbers.

THE PALISADES. Founded by Jeff and Barbara Black, this market-restaurant eschews fanfare, much to the delight of the affluent neighborhood folks who deem themselves regulars. Once you've made your way past the spectacular array of fresh fish and seafood displayed on the retail end, you'll find friendly waitstaff eager to welcome you to your cozy booth or table. From there, the tough choices start: Will it be fried Ipswich clams or braised baby octopus? Mahi-mahi with polenta or French bourride? You really can't go wrong.

DOWNTOWN. Amid rich colors and polished woodwork, you'll find some of DC's best steaks. Celebrated for its porterhouse, Bobby Van's attracts folks who have access to sturdy expense accounts. They come for prime cuts of meat, shipped to the restaurant and dry-aged on the premises, imparting both flavor and tenderness. Other popular options include the New York strip, short ribs, braised lamb shank, and lobster. While the company's paying, check out the substantial wine list, and take note of daily specials, which showcase a few unexpected treats.